From blistered sunburn to hospital hand-washing, wound healing and more, it has us instantly recalling skin that has been damaged.
So why on earth do skin clinics tout a professional skin peel as such a beneficial option in the pursuit of a smooth, clear and healthy-looking complexion?
It’s because the word actually commonly describes a treatment, akin to a surface exfoliation, but without using any physical gritty particles, that can actually deliver impressive skin- improving results.
Significant ingredient and formulation innovation in recent years means there are now peels for general rejuvenation, as well as options to target and dramatically improve specific skin challenges such as pigmentation or acne.
What is a skin peel?
Regular exfoliation helps give you a refined and radiant complexion. Yet if you have a busy life that means extra products for this step take up time, your skin is looking a bit sluggish or dull, or you’re managing a tricky skin condition, a peel, or a series of peels, can give it a bit of a kickstart.
Involving a topical application of a liquid solution of skin-safe active ingredients, the peel renews (intensely exfoliates) the surface of your skin.
They offer a variety of benefits depending on their formulation, but peels are especially good for improving sun damage and stubborn hyperpigmentation and some are proven to stimulate increased production of collagen and elastin.
Contrary to that initial impression, a professional peel shouldn’t leave you red, raw and exposed at all. Used correctly, it will remove debris and reveal a new glow.
“The objective is to gently exfoliate and dissolve damaged skin cells, leaving skin feeling soft and smooth,” says Carol Geal, skin therapist and owner of 360 Skin Studio in Christchurch.
“Skin regeneration occurs without damaging or destroying the [protective natural top layer of skin known as the] skin barrier.”
Peels can be gentle and customised
She says in-salon peels should only be performed by doctors, nurses and beauty therapists after a thorough skin consultation, due to their advanced formulas.
Probeauty trainer and skin therapist Penny Wright agrees. She adds that while the word peel can sound intimidating, and refers to scientifically proven, corrective skin treatments, ingredients can be as gentle as natural fruit enzymes, or build right up to lactic acid or stronger salicylic acid and retinol peels, which work on the deeper layers of skin.
“Each peel has varying strengths and active ingredients used to achieve individual results,” points out Wright, explaining that their customisable nature means a professional will be able to fine-tune them based on your skin’s condition.
Wright likes O Cosmedics Pro Dermal Planning Peels because there are six different types, with 30 different treatment combinations, to get the best result for you.
“They range between 30-45 minutes and can include a deep cleanse, exfoliation, a customised peel, or double peel for advanced treatment programs, and an alginate rubber mask that goes on like cake batter,” she says. “It sets, then comes off in one piece, to instantly cool and soothe, tighten enlarged pores, improve blood circulation, and increase oxygen supply to improve skin health, complexion and radiance.”
Geal works with Environ’s Cool Peels, designed to remove dull, damaged skin cells and leave skin revived, radiant and beautiful, without causing irritation or excessive stinging or warmth.
“When the correct peel is used, it should be comfortable, not at all unpleasant, with no downtime.”
Environ Cool Peels use a slow- release system using Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) – a bio-identical acetic acid originally made from grapes – and lactic acid which not only exfoliants but helps hydrate, too.
“Environ’s philosophy is that it is better to do gentler, but effective peels regularly, rather than one intense peel treatment which can create severe peeling and redness with the possibility of downtime,” adds Geal.
She recommends clients have a course of 6-12 peels for ultimate results.
A course or a one-off ‘pre-party’ treatment
“Skin conditions such as acne and rosacea are generally weekly sessions, whereas ageing, dry, pigmented or dehydrated skin will more likely be fortnightly,” she explains, but says a one-off treatment is great to give skin a ‘wake-up’ boost.
She says her clients are currently loving the results of the Environ Vibrant Micro-C Peel, helpful for softening pigmentation, rough texture, sun damage and all forms of scarring, as well as the Environ Cool Peel 10% Lactic Acid Gel, which she colloquially refers to as a ‘party peel.’
“It’s wonderful prior to a special event as skin will look hydrated, smooth and fabulous. Makeup also glides on beautifully, leaving skin looking even more incredible!”
As peels reveal that fresh new skin, they make you susceptible to sun exposure, so are generally used more often in the cooler months. SPF should be applied daily, but it’s even more important after a peel.
There are several reasons peels might not be right for you. For example, pregnancy, breastfeeding, if you are undergoing chemotherapy, or if you have very sensitive skin or are using Retin-A (topical tretinoin).
L-R: L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Bright Reveal Dark Spot Exfoliant Peel; O Cosmedics 3 in 1 Fruit Peel Mask; Aspect Dr Lanazyme Micro Peel; La Mer The Micro Peel; Dermalogica Powerbright Dark Spot Peel
At-home options
DIY options, while fairly superficial compared to in-clinic options, can be useful for those unable to head to a clinic. Yet dabbling with exfoliating ingredients if you’re managing sensitivity, rosacea or acne can be tricky, as is calming unexpectedly angry skin after an all-too-vigorous application.
Achieving a healthy glow without stripping your skin barrier is a bit of a balancing act, which is why if you’re less than confident, seeking professional advice is your best bet.
If you’re keen to dive in, do your research, and read the instructions on the product you’re interested in from start to finish before going anywhere near your skin. Don’t be tempted to leave the product on any longer than suggested.
Tingling is normal, but if things get itchy or burning, it’s best to err on the side of caution and remove the product straight away. Stronger ‘at-home’ options sometimes come with a ‘neutralising agent’ to calm and replenish the skin straight away.
At the affordable end of the scale, L’Oréal Paris’ new Revitalift Bright Reveal Dark Spot Exfoliant Peel is designed to tackle stubborn pigmentation at home. With a cocktail of exfoliating acids including AHA, BHA, PHA and brightening active niacinamide, the formula increases cell turnover to renew skin. Rather than an every-night product, it’s intended to mimic a treatment you’d
get in a skin clinic, so you apply all over your face (avoiding the eyes) and leave on for 15 minutes before rinsing away with water.
The red colour of The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution made it go viral on social media. However, it has meant many fans have jumped in without heeding its warning the concentrated formula is “for experienced users of acid exfoliation only”.
Dermalogica’s Rapid Reveal Peel usefully comes with 10 tubes (one treatment in each) so you can use it periodically without the formula degrading on contact with air. Said to improve radiance and visibly reduce fine lines, it contains AHA extracts, lactic acid and fermented plant enzymes. The brand’s new PowerBright Dark Spot Peel directly targets dark spots, post-blemish marks
and melasma.
