Looking fresh, radiant and well-rested is the goal, while playing down any areas you’re not so fond of. Here are some smoke and mirror strategies to try if you’re looking to adjust your technique:
Moisturise well
Applying makeup on dry, dehydrated skin is the quickest way to accentuate creases and lines you might prefer not to spotlight. Apply a light moisturiser a few minutes before you start your makeup to ensure it’s well absorbed.
Try a primer
Far from another unnecessary step, a good makeup primer has the ability to smooth and brighten the surface of the skin, creating an even canvas whether you apply makeup on to or not. The options are varied but look for one that says ‘blurring’, ‘perfecting’ or ‘illuminating’. Here’s how to choose the best makeup primer for you.
Apply fluid, but full coverage, foundation sparingly
The best approach with foundation is to go lightly, allowing some of your natural skin tone to remain visible.
Instead of choosing a very sheer formulation in a bid to stay ‘natural’ but subsequently adding extra concealer, try taking a less-is-more approach with a more full-coverage fluid foundation. Apply sparingly with a dense bristle foundation brush focussing only on the areas that need it to hide redness, dark circles, pigmentation, veins, broken capillaries and uneven skin tone, rather than your whole face.
Apply thin layers only where needed rather than masking the whole face.
Use a fluffy brush for concealer
Choose a fluffy eye blending brush usually used for blending eyeshadow into the crease of the eyelid and use it for liquid concealer instead. It’ll mean you can sweep on the lightest touch of cover and use the brush to blend seamlessly in a circular motion to achieve an ‘airbrushed’ finish, particularly on very creased areas around the eyes and the product won’t settle into lines later in the day.
Don’t overdo concealer
It can be easy to an extra to try and cover dark circles but that usually backfires and serves to highlight them and settle in creases. Avoid heavy triangles under the eyes – instead, use a light touch or look into colour correcting makeup products that serve to counteract the undertones in your skin that causes shadows and darkness.
Ditch the heavy face powder
As we age skin dries out, the need to combat oil becomes less, and retaining a natural glow more important. Instead, use a radiant foundation and set with a colourless translucent powder, avoiding the eye area. Modern formulas are high tech and allow a featherlight veil, without adding more colour or a dry chalky finish.
Add a rosy blush
A soft flush of blush will liven up any complexion. Smile and apply to the cheeks blending upwards toward the corner of eyes to give the face some elegant structure rather than a girlish pop on the apples.
The most universally flattering colour is a mid-rose tone, but fair skin tones suit soft pinks and peach, medium suits deeper rose, coral and bronze and dark skin tones look great with fuchsia, coral and rich berry shades.
Blend a glowy product over skin
Shimmery illuminators and highlighters can spotlight wrinkles but a drop of a glowy liquid product blended onto skin under foundation (or with your foundation on the back of your hand) can supply youthful radiance.
Use your cheek to match
Judge the right foundation colour by your lower cheek, your neck may have been shaded from the sun while your hand will have seen a lot of it.
Go for creams over powders
Skin can become dryer as we age, and powder products can emphasise that. Learn how to apply liquid foundation rather than sticking with a pancake type applied from a compact, or try a ‘cushion’ foundation that has a fresh-looking finish you can dab on with a sponge. Modern cream blushes also look natural and can be tapped on to cheeks with your fingertips.
