Day five at New Zealand Fashion Week
Not only was the WORLD show a presentation of their Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, but also the live finale of New Zealand’s Next Top Model, with the three finalists walking in the show. Known for never doing things by half, WORLD did not disappoint with their surreal spectacle titled Good vs Evil.
While the collection was fairly short (no menswear was shown), the the flamboyant outfits, theatrical make-up and the intricately designed avant-garde head wear kept the audience on the edge of their seats.
First up, the lights were dimmed and three models wearing structured suits with glowing blue seams appeared – as if straight out of a sci-fi movie. Then came futuristic florals, bubble-shaped sleeves, hair in high buns studded with colourful gems, and beautiful rose prints. The next theme was based on the winter princess – the models looking as if they have stepped straight off the set of Narnia with their shaggy, faux fur coats that screamed “look at me”. Baby pink and powder blue coloured fur coats made a statement, while a floor length white fur coat with a long tail took the audience’s breath away. The show also saw the debut of the ‘World made me do it!’ show collection, which is a collaboration with Number One Shoes.
Hair and Make-up
The amazing hair and make-up at the WORLD show outdid anything else seen that week. Taking hours to create, each model had a different look depending on the theme of their outfit. But for each, the make-up (keyed by Shiseido’s make-up artists James Leuii and Hiro Nemoto) was both beautiful and theatrical. Plenty of red and silver glitter, drawn in eyebrows and larger-than-life false eyelashes transformed the models into worldly creatures. One model’s face was outlined with hundreds of silver crystals.
The hair, created by Harold Samu from Valonz salon in Sydney, ranged from pulled tightly back and painted, or worn clipped to the head in huge rolls with glitter sprinkled on top while the majority wore the most incredible bejewelled headpieces that were works of art themselves.
Kathryn Wilson’s A/W show concluded NZFW, and what a way to finish. Forever brimming with ideas and a constant bundle of energy, the eponymous shoe designer pulled together a production like no other. Not only were the public invited – a NZFW first, making it one of the biggest shows to date with some 3000 people attending – but she also had live acts Kimbra and The Checks to complete the first-class entertainment.
The raised gold-glittered catwalk wrapped around the industrial shed where the show was held and multiple screens ensured that everyone could see what was going on – even in the back row. The models were wearing lacy black corsets and briefs, which proved to be slightly distracting to some of the audience (most males), but the shoes were also show stoppers in their own right. The covetable collection included zebra-print fur ankle boots, pumps with studded heels, crocodile leather, snakeskin, lizard print, patent leather, calf skin, two-toned wedges, crushed velvet, sling-backs, platforms, Doc Martin-esque boots, heeled loafers, the classic riding boot and plenty of buckles. Wilson sites ‘power dressing in the nineties’ as her main inspiration, hence the juxtaposition of textures and surfaces, creating shoes that are both luxe and playful … and certainly covetable.
Hair and Make-Up
The voluminous and wavy hair was directed by Danny Pato from D&M. “We came up with the concept after a couple of wines, watching iconic movies and thinking about sexy, glamorous women who’ve just rolled out of bed.”
“Because the winter 2012 collection of footwear is textured, panelled and rich in colours,” says Wilson, “we wanted to show similar shades in the eyes and reference the 90s era of power dressing.” The make-up was also to reflect the idea that the model had been out all night and had just woken up in her make-up. To recreate this feeling, Kiri O’Brien for M.A.C Cosmetics, gave the skin a dewy finish, highlighting the cheeks with a pearl cream colour base, and created a smoky, worn-in eye with black and violet eyeshadow and gold glitter in the inner corner. The lips were left nude. A palette of burnished jewel colours adorned the nails.