I’m clinging tightly to Lan’s arm. Lan is clinging tightly to a wonky-looking wooden pole and the pole is precariously attached to some rather worn looking floorboards, which alarmingly allows me a direct view to the dry riverbed far below. As we shuffle past the throng of tourists along the narrow platform, I try to focus on the ornate detail and amazing craftsmanship of the structure rather than the fact that it is dubiously clinging to the sheer precipice in the same way I’m clinging to Lan. 

Built more than 1500 years ago, the Hanging Monastery in China’s Shanxi province sits more than 50 metres above the ground at the foot of Heng Shan (Mount Heng). Lan, our obliging tour guide, tells me the monks chose this spot to show their determination. Determined they must have been. Not only is this an architectural feat but also a cultural feat, overcoming religious diversions to serve as a centre for worshippers from Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism over successive centuries. Featuring 40 halls, cabinets, pavilions and sculptures cast in a mixture of bronze, iron, clay, stone, copper and terracotta, it’s easy to see why the Hanging Monastery remains a mecca for those from far and wide. 

SPIRITUAL CENTRE

There is something in the air in the little-known province of Shanxi, and I’m not talking about smog. That ‘something’ is a feeling I’ve not come across anywhere else in China; a sense of peace, a sense of calm and a sense of excitement and assurance. From the moment we boarded the 1950s communist-era-style sleeper train for the five-hour journey from Beijing, the mood changed, the pace slowed and the smiles became even friendlier. My attention is divided between northern China’s rural landscape rushing past the window – ploughed fields, tiny huts, donkeys and bustling villages – and the train guards, whose limited English is matched only in hilarity by my Mandarin, or more accurately, my Chinglish. There is nothing like a game of cross-cultural charades to make the time fly. 

But Shanxi province’s mountainous terrain makes for more than just a picturesque train ride. Home to Chinese Buddhism, Shanxi kept much of its cultural and religious heritage, not through careful planning and UNESCO-endowed projects but through sheer luck. When Mao Zedong, Chairman of the Communist Party of China, set out to create a socialist nation devoid of any religion and odes to the country’s rich background, Shanxi was spared much of the cultural pillaging that went on. Its mountainous terrain prevented troops from reaching many of the sites of cultural and religious significance, leaving a plethora of diverse artefacts, temples and architectural wonders.

Lan, who is from the Shanxi capital, Taiyuan, is perhaps the perfect fit in a province that bucks the trend. Despite the country’s strict one-child policy, Lan is the second of three children. Not only is she a fantastic storyteller with superb English, Lan would give Sa Dingding (one of China’s most famous pop singers) a run for her money in the singing stakes, taking any opportunity to serenade us in the country’s unique operatic style. A small city by China’s standards – a cool four million people – the province’s capital is home to some of the world’s largest companies including Foxconn, the manufacturers of Apple products, and provides a mid-point

for exploring the area’s famous relics.

YUNGANG GROTTOES

Yungang Grottoes, one of the most revered examples of Buddhist cave art, consist of 252 caves and 51,000 statues. Built in the fifth and sixth centuries over 60 years, the UNESCO World Heritage Listed site is awe-inspiring and demands a certain amount of reverence from the normally chatty tourists. The giant Buddhas, some reaching 25 metres high, were hand carved and have managed to survive not just human mismanagement but brutal weather. Several restoration projects have been undertaken, including one at the turn of the millennium. Now a protected site under UNESCO guidance, the grottoes have received large-scale investment from local government, and the surrounding area features a glittering new visitor centre that cost two billion yuan ($370 million).

WUTAI SHAN 

It is in the Wutai Shan (Mount Wutai) area that Shanxi’s peaceful aura becomes most apparent. The high altitude results in a drop in temperature of a few degrees and makes way for bright blue skies and crisp, fresh air. Home to 108 historic temples, Mount Wutai is one of the four mountains sacred in Chinese Buddhism and a place of religious significance for the many thousands of Chinese Buddhists across the country.

In the summer months some 6000 monks make their home in the 44 operational temples across the area. In an amusing merging of the old and new, monks span the area wearing traditional gowns with Nike sneakers popping out the bottom and vendors wait outside the temple gates to sell cold Coca-Cola to pilgrims and tourists. There are both Tibetan and Han (Chinese) monks coexisting in the area; the Tibetan monks wear red and eat meat and are permitted to marry whereas Han monks wear gold or grey, are vegetarians and will never marry, Lan tells us. 

First established in the 15th century the area’s rich history can be deciphered among the 5000 ancient scriptures, 300 resplendent frescoes (many of which were hidden by a mud covering during the cultural revolution), 4000 ornate statues, 50 giant bell towers and 200 musical instruments on display to visitors. 

PINGYAO

It’s a beautiful, clear day as we approach the walled city of Pingyao, another UNESCO-protected cultural heritage site. The area has been continuously settled since 221 BC and is contained within a six-kilometre wall approximately 12 metres high. 

Despite cars and motorbikes being banned, Pingyao remains a working city. Known as the home of banking within China until the early 20th century, during the late Qing dynasty (1644-1911), Pingyao could once make claim to almost half the country’s banks. But the city is far from a straight-edged financial district. Bright coloured lanterns hang from shop fronts, eager locals flog their wares to passing foot-traffic, and tourists and locals alike weave their way through myriad back streets. 

Don’t expect to find a Hilton or InterContinental here. We’re staying in the single-storied Hongshanyi Hotel with its traditional Ming Dynasty-style architecture. The city has retained much of the era’s historic architecture, making it feel as though the surrounding walls have helped prevent modern China from seeping in.

As recently as 1997, before receiving its UNESCO designation, 200,000 people lived in the area before they were removed to ensure the city was preserved. Now home to just 10,000 people, one such resident is a man going by the name of Peter. A catholic name for a catholic bloke, Peter’s family has lived in Pingyao for many generations. He learned his English from cassette tapes and reading foreign newspapers. The statuesque man in his late 50s says he was recently laid off from his job and now happily wanders the streets finessing his English with visitors. Peter has never married and lives with his sister, who is also catholic; two of 1000 living in Pingyao who were forced to deny their faith during the cultural revolution. Lan tells us that Chairman Mao sent people to destroy Pingyao but they ended up living here and it’s not hard to see why.

As my trip comes to a close, I find myself once again clinging tightly to Lan’s arm. Not for fear that harm will come my way but in a vain attempt to somehow remain in this enchanted province. For if Mao’s men got one thing right, it was to spot a beautiful city when they saw one. 

Adventure World offers a host of independent and small-group journeys to China, showcasing the country’s major highlights and hidden treasures. Discover the Hanging Monastery at Mount Heng and wander the ancient streets of Pingyao on Adventure World’s six-day/five-night Ancient North China journey. Travelling from Beijing to Datong, Mount Wutai, Taiyuan and Pingyao, this enchanting tour is priced from just $1255 per person, twin share. For more information or to book, visit adventureworld.co.nz or call 0800 465 432.

Cathay Pacific offers daily non-stop flights from Auckland to Hong Kong, the gateway to China. From Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific and sister airline Dragonair offer nine daily flights to Beijing. Special fares to Beijing and China are available, visit cathaypacific.co.nz