There’s something remarkably old-fashioned about taking a train to a destination that you could reach in only three hours by plane. One of the side effects of the modern world is we rarely journey for the journey’s sake, tending to focus on the time it takes rather than the journey itself.

So why go by rail when you can fly for a fraction of the price? Perhaps it’s the 
fear of flying or, conversely, the joy of wanting to explore the world. Or maybe, as in 
our case, it’s an opportunity to experience the pleasure 
of reliving train travel from 
a bygone era.

After jamming our suitcases into the taxi and then unloading them at the Cairns Railway Station, we tote them along the concourse to the endmost luggage carriage. We’re pleased with our decision to take just an overnight bag on board as the women in smart uniforms check us in and weigh our luggage while the chatty luggage attendants save us from any further hatred of our suitcases.

The heyday of travelling 
by rail was the early 1930s. Back then, only the wealthy and the influential were whisked away to exotic destinations. Don’t get us wrong – the words “luxury train travel” may evoke fond memories of past journeys and the Orient Express, but while The Sunlander may not be in the same league, it does promise its own version of first class, or Queenslander Class, for those who like the finer things in life.

The journey from Cairns to Brisbane passes through 27 towns and takes 31 hours. The major attractions are the scenery, impeccable service, interesting company and, importantly, the opportunity to simply sit back and relax.

We settle into our small airconditioned cabin complete with wardrobe and washbasin (the toilet and shower are down the corridor). Our first decision: who will be sleeping in the top bunk? We haven’t thought to bring our dressing gowns, but happily we’re provided with a few luxury touches, such as a complimentary toiletries bag that includes 
a cotton robe, slippers and 
a mask for sleeping.

Our steward brings us a fruit drink and the daily papers and tells us what is on the lunch menu. In Queenslander Class the meals are all-inclusive and Queensland Rail has made a huge effort to overcome the outdated image of railway food, though it has to be said the coffee is still railway standard.

For staff members Marko, Alistair and Shelly, who have spent so many years working on these trains, we guess their philosophy is they may as well derive some entertainment from it. They ferry plates of food to tables, serve drinks, make up the beds, sing and showcase their multiple talents. How they manage to juggle their artistic and more menial chores so smoothly has us baffled, but the service never lags and, heaven knows, neither does the entertainment.

9.15am: right on cue the wheels begin to roll as we make our way leisurely through the outskirts of Cairns, bound for Brisbane. The narrow tracks make for a bumpy walk along the confined corridors to the lounge car to socialise with our fellow passengers: the couple from Mount Isa who seem to enjoy talking to everyone but each other; 
a retired railway engineer and his family, whose yarns and endless cans of lager keep pace with each other; two elderly women whose gluten- and fat-free diets don’t faze the chef; and a wealthy Russian couple who are very upset that their change of clothing has been left behind in their car, which is travelling economy class at the rear of the train.

Soon we’re in the open country, the lilting voice of our maître d’hôtel, Alistair, providing us with an informed commentary and a call for morning tea. So, with appetites sharpened, we wander down to the dining car for freshly baked scones with cream and strawberry jam.

Surprisingly, we are quite hungry when lunch is called. As lunch includes a large platter of seafood with salad and seasonal fruits, and a gourmet land lovers platter with hand-chosen cold meats, antipasto delicacies and freshly baked rolls, we are starting to ask ourselves whether we will have the stamina for a three-course meal that evening.

Between meals some of the passengers disappear into their cabins. We wander up to the lounge car to read magazines, strike up conversations, watch the scenery change and decide if it’s time for a G&T. Before lunch and dinner, Doug, the resident musician, strums his guitar and sings from his repertoire of more than 1000 songs. If we feel the need to stretch our legs we alight 
at any of the various stations for a breath of fresh air.

It’s remarkable how meals of such quality and variety are prepared in a galley the size of a walk-in wardrobe. Take the dinner menu, for example: entrees of minestrone, smoked salmon timbale and baked chicken breast; mains of tournedos rossini, braised duck and steamed snapper; and irresistible desserts of cocoa bean pudding, trifle 
and a cheese and fruit plate.

Suffering from food overload, we stagger to our cabin and – voilà! – chocolate bonbons have appeared on the turned-down bed.

As the train trundles on through the night, sleep comes easy for some; others pace the corridors, drinking tea or striking up hushed conversations with other insomniacs. Still, no one is missing at breakfast and, after cereals, hot pancakes and scrambled eggs with bacon and toast, we’re back on track.

When we reach Brisbane we have travelled more than 1600km through lush tropical rainforest and countless sugar cane, banana and pineapple plantations, also discovering that the most mundane railway station can be transformed with tropical pot plants.

Suddenly it occurs to us: we haven’t missed the phones, the emails or the plasma television. Perhaps we should travel this way more often!

Air New Zealand, Tourism Queensland, Queensland Rail and Southern Cross Travel Insurance assisted the Knills.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Air New Zealand flies to Brisbane from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, and from Auckland to Cairns. Phone Air New Zealand Holidays on 0800 747 222 or visit airnewzealand.co.nz.

Timetable: The Sunlander operates three days a week, with Queenslander Class available only on Sunday 
and Thursday on the northbound journey and Tuesday and Saturday on 
the southbound journey.

Further information: 
To book your Australian Rail Journey contact Rail Plus. Phone +64 9 377 5415 
or 0800 801 060. 
Email info@ozrail.co.nz. 
Visit railplus.co.nz.