At 4pm one afternoon I’m sitting at my desk in Auckland.
The next morning I’m waking in Rarotonga, the Cook Islands.
It’s hard to believe. These South Pacific islands might be a world away from city life yet they’re only three-and-a-half hours by air from Auckland international airport, making this the perfect destination if you’re looking for tropical paradise with only a few days to spare.
We were away for just four nights, but within 24 hours of arriving we were on island time, the stresses and strains of city life becoming a distant memory. The islanders’ relaxed attitude and warm, willing hospitality at every juncture make it virtually impossible to maintain a stressed or strung-out state of mind.
The local tongue is Cook Islands Maori, which is closely related to New Zealand Maori and the Polynesian languages Tahitian and Hawaiian. English is spoken as a second language by virtually everyone, so communicating with the locals is easy and, speaking from experience, a pleasure. The Cook Islanders are some of the friendliest people I’ve met, making travelling to, from and around the islands a joy.
Having arrived on Rarotonga at midnight, I was a little sad to be leaving the Cook Islands’ capital island unexplored so early the next morning. We had spent our one night there at
the Rarotongan Beach Resort & Spa,
our spacious beach bungalow a mere
10 strides from the crystal-clear ocean that greeted us upon waking. I repacked my case grudgingly and made my way to the breakfast room before we headed back to the airport to catch our 8am flight to the island of Aitutaki.
It may seem like a lot of travel, considering we’d arrived only the night before, but the secret is to see island hopping as part of the experience.
The 30-minute check-in time barely nibbled at our trip, let alone ate into it, and the 45-minute flight from Rarotonga to Aitutaki was breathtaking. I gazed in awe from the window of the 30-seater plane as we descended. The view was extraordinary. Among the crashing waves of the deep-blue ocean were still, turquoise waters dotted with motu (small islands), the outer reef keeping the vast ocean out and preserving the serene stillness of Aitutaki’s lagoon.
THE ULTIMATE ESCAPE
Landing no more than 30m from the entrance of tiny Aitutaki airport, we disembarked and were presented with
a frangipani lei while a local man sang
to the feel-good sounds of his ukulele. The sun was shining, the locals were smiling and the scenery around the airport was stunning. I sipped the juice from a hollowed-out coconut that my resort hosts handed to me, any regrets about leaving Rarotonga after such
a short stay quickly evaporating.
We had booked to stay at the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa, rumoured to have the best section of beach on the atoll.
We arrived at the resort after a five-minute drive, but before we could check into our room we had to cross 50m of lagoon by boat.
The resort is on a tiny island of its own – the ultimate escape. We boarded the crossing boat, which operates all day, every day, until 11pm. One minute later, at 9.30am, we were standing at the shore of our island resort.
The intensity of my colour vision increased. I was mesmerised by the brilliant blue sky, the bright orange and pink flowers, the vivid green plants and the dazzling aquamarine water.
A smiling receptionist gave us the key to our room, where thoughtfully placed flowers imparted a delicate floral scent to the breeze coming from the overhead fan. Melodic island tunes played softly in the background and we had to laugh at the cliché of it all. It really was paradise.
Changing out of muted city denim and into colourful island cotton and sandals, we were ready for the beach, where rows of perfectly manicured palm trees linked by hammocks led to 200m of deserted sugar sand and crystal-clear water.
FEAST FOR THE SENSES
After a refreshing dip we took
the crossing boat back to the mainland and hired a scooter from nearby
Popoara Rentals to explore the island.
For a minimal charge we secured the
use of a scooter for 24 hours. After
a brief visit to the police station, where we had to show a driver’s licence and pay a nominal fee, we were good to go.
The backdrop of green tropical rainforest to the left, ocean to the right and blue sky above, coupled with the scent of frangipanis in the air, made us feel we were as close to heaven on Earth as possible. The smiling locals working on their roadside gardens waved enthusiastically as we scooted past.
Scooters are a great way to see the island, but for ultimate sensory overload a lagoon cruise is essential. The following morning we were collected at 10am and, after an hour or so of cruising the luminescent turquoise waters, we dropped anchor at a popular snorkelling spot to explore the fringes of the coral reef below, sighting giant clams and
a vast range of tropical fish.
Over a lunch of fresh tuna steak
and salad on One Foot Island, which was recently awarded Australasia’s Leading Beach in the 2008 World Travel Awards, our captain entertained us with myths and legends about the various motu in the lagoon.
A quick shower on our return and we were ready for the evening’s entertainment at the resort. A must during your stay is the traditional Island Night featuring the Island Taste Sensation dinner and traditional island dance. The locals don their glad rags
– straw skirts, sarongs and coconut
bras – and dance up a storm on the sand. It’s quite a show. I was glad of the courage from my cocktails when I was pulled from my seat and encouraged to join in the festivities.
Aitutaki isn’t strongly tailored for tourists, which is arguably one of its biggest drawcards, especially if you’re looking to get away from it all. However, while the resort restaurants are always
an easy option for a rumbling tummy,
it’s worth exploring other options, as there are a few gems to uncover.
Our favourite lunch spot was the organic Tauono’s, where only what is picked from the garden each day goes
on the menu. Samade on the Beach is
a relaxed and wallet-friendly restaurant bar serving simple, tasty lunches and dinners. The Boat Shed is another relaxed dining spot – a tad more expensive but still good value for money.
Kayaking, fishing, snorkelling, hiking, cycling, swimming and, of course, lounging around, eating and drinking are all equally good ways to while away your stay on Aitutaki. With such beautiful surroundings and the infectious spirit of the locals, whatever you choose to do you’re bound to be doing it with a smile.
PERPETUAL SUMMER
Seasonal variations in the Cook Islands are slight, making this a great holiday destination all year round. Temperatures range from 18C (night) to 28C (day)
in winter (May to October) and 21C to 29C in summer (November to April).
Summer, known as “frangipani season”, is when the frangipanis, flame trees, mangoes, pineapples and sunsets are
at their amazing best.
