I remember as a child eagerly reading the classic novel We of the Never Never, set in Australia’s Northern Territory, and vividly imagining an unforgiving land isolated from the rest of the country by climate and distance, challenging those early gutsy pioneers.
It was with great excitement, then, that I headed off to the very same place in which Mrs Aneas (Jeannie) Gunn so courageously set up home some 100 years ago. But I wondered: Does that sense of remoteness survive today? Is this vast area, the Top End, still far removed from the madding crowds? I was eager to find out.
Unlike the rest of Australia, the Top End has only two seasons: wet and dry. During the wet season, from November to April, there is a mass exodus of Territorians to drier climes; however, those who stay tell of astonishing sights of river levels rising 20 metres in three hours, and wild electrical storms providing spectacular light shows.
On the edge of the Timor Sea is the state capital, Darwin, once only known for ìbeing home to missionaries, prostitutes and murderersî, or so a character I later meet in Katherine, ‘Marksie’, reveals with a cheeky grin. Understandably eager to shed this dubious image, a new sophistication is emerging in the city, such as the Wharf Precinct and Cullen Bay Marina, which offer al fresco waterside dining. The open-air cinema and markets alongside Mindil Beach are particular favourites – especially as you can take to the sand and watch the incredible sunsets. Fortunately, there still exists lots of final-frontier charm, and Darwin’s relaxed personality is a welcome change from the larger cities down south.
A short drive from Darwin reveals some of the most unspoilt natural beauty in Australia. Exploring the region by 4WD camper enables you to journey along the road less travelled and uncover treasures hidden from the main highways. A shift of gear and even the most novice driver can tackle rough terrain and water crossings. The camper, although compact, provides sleeping for four. It’s ideal for a family holiday and the fridge is a welcome inclusion when the temperature hovers around 33 degrees throughout the year.
The highway south is flanked by abandoned military airstrips, remnants of a time when the territory was the first line of defence in WWII. In February 1942, Darwin suffered the first of a number of Japanese air attacks, news that was kept from the rest of Australia, for fear of alarming people in the cities to the south. Throughout the territory, scattered airplane debris and war memorabilia is a constant reminder of this important time in the region’s history.
CROCS AND CELEBRATIONS
Two hundred and fifty kilometres southwest of Darwin is the Daley River region, where it is said that to really appreciate the surroundings you should take to the water. Good advice, as the river affords a brand-new perspective of the landscape, especially when indulging in a spot of barramundi fishing. ‘Barra’ is revered in these parts, and the dream to land a prize catch is infectious. Anything over 65 centimetres gains our boat owner Andrew’s nod of approval.
However, it is the anticipation of sighting another inhabitant of this area that causes the most excitement, and we don’t have to wait long. Suddenly, there he is, a magnificent specimen – three metres long, mouth ajar, lazing on the riverbank: the legendary crocodile.
The boat moves closer and we come up alongside him – it’s a memorable moment that encapsulates the essence of outback Australia. Warned to show respect to these magnificent creatures we do just that, especially as, days before, a local had decided to take a short cut across the river and never made it to the other side.
Festivals held throughout the Top End bring people from all backgrounds together for celebrations of indigenous art, music, sport and traditional crafts. The Merrepen Arts and Sports Festival is held in the community of Nauiyu Nambiyu on the banks of the Daly River, and the Barunga Sports and Culture Festival takes place within the borders of Arnhem Land. There is a strict no-alcohol policy on the communities, so drivers are breathalysed and any alcohol within the vehicle is confiscated before entering.
I feel special to be a part of these celebrations, watching as locals relax and children cool off in the water. The women share some of their culture – teaching me to weave baskets from pandanus leaves and telling Dreaming stories by the lily pond. It is evident how vital it is that these traditions are passed down to the next generations. Linguist and Aboriginal language specialist Nicholas Reid tells of how only seven of the hundreds of original Aboriginal dialects remain today. In an effort to preserve these languages, Reid, together with Patricia Marrfurra MacTaggart, produced the Ngan’gi Dictionary in 2008.
Throughout the day, there are games of Tiwi Football, a sport similar to Australian Rules introduced in 1941 to the Tiwi Islands, some 80 kilometres north of Darwin, by Brother John Pye. Its players demonstrate amazing skill and passion, however few achieve AFL stardom; their strong cultural ties make it difficult for the young men to live in the big cities, away from their family and sacred homeland. The finale of the Merrepen Festival is a concert under the stars showcasing the territory’s best indigenous talent. The bands bring the night alive – telling their traditional stories in a dazzling display of colour, movement and rock music.
NATURE BECKONS
Leaving the Daly River region, we continue on to Litchfield National Park, where we are met with rows and rows of giant magnetic termite mounds, standing as though props from an alien movie set. Perfectly engineered by nature, their centres always remain cool, whatever the time of day.
Heading off road, we arrive at the Tjaynera Falls at Sandy Creek. Spectacular white water cascades into the spring-fed rock pool – framed by lush pandanus trees – providing an invigorating therapeutic shower. It’s pristine and picture perfect.
We journey east towards Mt Bundy Station (mtbundy.com.au), where a stay provides an opportunity to experience the day-to-day goings-on of a working cattle station. Amicable owners Scott and Sue Witham treat us to a panoramic vista from the top of a nearby peak, where, glass of wine in hand, we are seduced by the spectacular sunset, the sun melting over the landscape in magical shades of gold and pink. After a hearty campfire dinner, we retire to the Stockman Quarters, as many travelling jackeroos have done before us. The Withams’ claim that ìPeople arrive as guests and leave as friendsî is no exaggeration.
A must for any Top End trip is to experience the wonders of Nitmiluk Gorge, especially in a boat trip along the Katherine River. The magnificent golden escarpments tower on both sides and aboriginal rock paintings are a reminder that this is sacred land with a rich indigenous heritage.
We meet up with Ranger Tyrone, who leads us on a short bush trek along the Jatbula Trail, his indigenous knowledge revealing a treat hidden in the surrounding plant life – ‘chewing gum’, provided by the sap of the acacia tree. Hot and dusty, we are rewarded with the Northern Rockhole, an oasis in the scrub. Befitting the surroundings, our lunch includes crocodile sausage, smoked kangaroo, rosella plant and quondong.
WARM WELCOME
Onto Mataranka in Elsey National Park and after luxuriating in the warm thermal pools we visit the gravesite of We of the Never Never author Gunn – her story brought to life by our recent travels, the hardships endured now better understood. I have not been disappointed. The Northern Territory, with its breathtaking natural beauty, has given substance to my childhood recollections.
Just outside Mataranka is Coodardie Station (coodardie.com.au), home to a head of prized Brahman cattle. The O’Brien family provide a warm welcome, and you can’t help but be charmed by their old-fashioned hospitality. Home-style bush tucker and fresh lemonade are scoffed down in the coolness of the huge verandah, and the O’Briens are so friendly that you feel as though you have returned home to family. They are especially proud of their holistic management philosophy and low-stress stock-handling approach.
The task of showing us around the property is handed to larrikin Uncle Rory – distinguished by his silver bush beard and a twinkle in the eye. Sitting in the front of a beat-up rusty ute, Uncle entertains us with tales of a family whose Irish forefathers struck it rich in the early goldfields of Western Australia before heading east to settle – a fascinating insight into the rich pioneering heritage
of the region.
On the banks of the Katherine River lies the biggest township in these parts, Katherine, where the aforementioned Marksie hosts an ‘Outback Australia’ night, serving a feast of lamb, emu and croc cooked over an open fire, complete with a boiling billy. The host and his
sidekick, Dave, entertain with bush yarns and humour way past its use-by date, unlike the warm delicious scones and homemade preserves for ‘afters’.
A two-day Gecko canoeing trip (geckocanoeing.com.au) along the Katherine provides another memorable way to take in the outstanding natural beauty and impressive variety of wildlife along the riverbanks and above as you paddle along. Along the river are sparkling rapids requiring, for some, a certain degree of paddling finesse. My canoe tackles most rapids backwards and a shout of ìJust go where the water takes youî from leader Mike is small comfort given that the rapids have such ominous names as Dead Man’s Drop.
Inevitably, my vessel capsizes, thrusting me down through the white froth before thankfully bobbing me back up again in time to watch my Akubra sail down the Katherine. High above, a brolga glides across the brilliant blue sky to survey
my brush with nature.
Back on dry land, camp is swiftly set up on the sandy riverbank and toiletries dispensed – a shovel and paper; this is really getting back to nature. As the sun goes down we are treated to a candlelit dinner, the still blackness broken by flickering candles. It’s a magical moment and the ultimate in riverside dining. Sleep beckons, and out in the open we cocoon ourselves in our swags to sleep under the stars.
The Northern Territory is a true wilderness escape, a world away from crowded beaches and theme parks, offering an outstanding outback experience that will entice the whole family. It awakens an appreciation of the Australian landscape and a respect for the rich indigenous heritage that lies within. That first close encounter with the infamous crocodile is simply unforgettable.
Life certainly is good in the Top End. But be careful, for as Jeannie Gunn penned more than 100 years ago, you may ‘Never Never want to leave’.
