As the Arabic quote says, ‘Death rides a camel fast.’
With that in mind I found you must always wear a seatbelt while driving in Dubai, as ‘Death also rides
a Toyota Mini Van at breakneck speed.’
The locals drive like maniacs; fast, furious and brake even faster. It’s not unusual to be travelling in a car at more than 140km/hr, which takes some getting used to. As I was hurled across the mini van onto another traveller, the front-seat passenger was asking, “Whose hat is this?” as my sunhat flew off in the opposite direction. Apologising, I carried on gazing out the window at a skyline of cranes and architecturally challenged buildings. Welcome to Dubai and the Middle East.
I have never been to the Middle East, so discovering the region by ship in seven days, in a round trip from Dubai, with all visas, tours and accommodation planned, and meals and drinks paid for up front, is ideal. It gave me a good taste of the region, and spared me the complications of air travel. The Silversea Silver Whisper, at the top end of the cruising market, will be my home for the next seven days.
“You will have fun at the poolside fiesta,” says Nataliya, my butler, in a heavy Ukrainian accent. Nataliya’s role is to make sure my stay on board is “perfect”. She runs me through the finer details of the room: internet access, movies on demand, walk-in wardrobe, bath and shower, Bulgari soaps, potions and creams, and a veranda to watch the sea roll by. I am very happy.
After a tour of the ship and a quick welcome drink at the poolside bar, Nataliya has already unpacked my bags and neatly arranged my clothes in “matchy match” fashion within the spacious walk-in wardrobe. My summer wardrobe of shorts and striped T-shirts – barely passing muster as a cruise collection – has never seen it so good. My bed is turned down, the Italian restaurant is booked for dinner, and now for the emergency drill.
As passengers assemble in the Viennese Lounge, Sam the cruise director takes us through the process of an evacuation drill. An Australian, originally from Perth, Sam boasts an eclectic resume:
he played the BBC children’s TV character Mr Blobby and also enjoys a passion for skydiving. With jazz hands flapping,
I was confident the entertainment would be high energy. If you’re into high kicks then ‘Putting on the Ritz’, ‘Broadway Rocks’ and ‘Dancing through the Waves’, the nightly shows with Sam and his band of merry men and women are for you.
There is another Arabic saying (also featuring dromedaries), advising that the soul invariably travels at the speed of a camel. It’s true, travelling at cruising speed allows time for contemplation and relaxation. Over the breakfast buffet, I chat with another passenger from Sydney, Sue Foley. “This cruise is the right price at the right time, it’s great value – it’s perfect,” she says.
A seasoned cruise vacationer, Sue and her husband have taken holidays shipside for over nine years; each year visiting a fresh location with a different cruise line. “There is a big range out there, but Silversea is one of the best. We wouldn’t have travelled to the Middle East on our own, but the price, destination, timing, and ports are all good,” she observes. “We don’t always get a veranda, and these are the largest cabins we have ever had.”
The UN World Tourism Organisation reported positive growth of tourist numbers back to the Middle East in the final quarter of 2009 and predicts 2010 will see it back on track for recovery after the exceptional financial challenges of last year.
Arriving in Abu Dhabi, it’s hard to imagine the capital of the United Arab Emirates was once a small fishing village with houses made from mudbrick and palm fronds. The discovery of vast oil reserves in the late 1950s and early ’60s saw the economy and infrastructure develop rapidly, changing Abu Dhabi beyond recognition.
Driving towards the Sheikh Zayed Mosque, popularly known as the Grand Mosque, the first thing I notice are the large domes, 80 in total, all in white marble, and topped by gold crescents in 24-carat gold – a stunning fusion of Arab, Indian and Moorish architecture.
Approaching the mosque’s entrance, columns embedded with handmade marble panels are revealed, encrusted with mother of pearl and semi-precious stones. The four minarets, classically Arabic in design, and the quintessentially Moorish archways, provide anchor points for the tourists while locals – dressed mainly in black – scurry around like ants against the brilliant white marble, off which the midday sun bounces, making it squinty bright.
Coloured, floral marble and mosaics pave the 17,000-square-metre courtyard, utilising materials and employing artisans from Italy, Germany, Morocco, India, Turkey, Iran, China and Greece. Visitors to the mosque must dress appropriately, with women changing into the black hijab – headscarf and long sleeves;
no shorts for men; and shoes must be removed before entering.
The mosque can accommodate more than 40,000 worshippers in its prayer halls and courtyard. The 99 names (qualities) of Allah are featured on the qibla wall (front internal wall directing to Mecca), using traditional kufi calligraphy and are subtly back-illuminated using fibre-optic lighting. Twenty-four carat gold, gold leaf and gold glass mosaic were also used in the mihrab (the niche found in the middle of the qibla wall) and crescents topping the walls.
The Grand Mosque also houses the world’s largest hand–woven Persian carpet at over 7000 square metres, plus seven 24-carat gold-plated chandeliers imported from Germany, all designed using thousands of Swarovski crystals. Considered the largest chandelier in the world, it hangs from the main dome of the mosque, 10 metres
wide, 15 metres high and weighing nine tonnes.
As beautiful and traditional as the Grand Mosque is, the rapid development of Abu Dhabi is also breathtaking. The Abu Dhabi Tourism Authority aims to attract up to 3 million visitors annually by 2015. The national airline, Etihad, was only established in 2003 and growth has never fallen below 40 per cent per annum. In its first four years, it doubled in size every six months.
In order to provide world-class travel, accommodation and attractions the authority has attracted huge private sector investments to fuel tourism projects. Is it any wonder the second Sex And The City movie is set partly in the newly emerging Abu Dhabi? And I thought the ladies just wanted to go shopping, play in the sand and look great against that Middle Eastern light.
Yas Island exemplifies the current development within the region as Abu Dhabi works on its very own sporting leisure centre. A 20-minute drive from the centre of Abu Dhabi, the island is still under construction and home to the Ferrari Theme Park, a Formula 1 circuit, water parks, golf courses, polo fields, equestrian centre and high-end hotels. It makes an interesting side trip as the modernity of the architecture alone is worth the visit.
Other islands also under construction will house museums, aquariums, and wildlife reserves. These projects are an important component of the Emirates’ determination to draw the world’s attention to its natural resources, besides oil and sand. As these islands are currently under construction, two of them are
reserved for breeding birds and turtles, while others are designated for exclusive resorts.
When it comes to luxurious resorts, Emirates Palace – originally built for the royal family – is possibly the most expensive hotel ever built in the world, costing the Abu Dhabi government US$3 billion. Often mistaken for the presidential palace, it is located on 1.3km of private white sandy beach, surrounded by 85 hectares of landscaped gardens and features just under 400 rooms and suites, with most of its interior decor in marble or gold.
For a cool $1 million you can experience the Ultimate Luxury Valentine Dream Holiday for you and your beloved, including first-class air tickets from anywhere in the world, designer shopping with Dior, helicopter rides, having your own perfume created for you, dinners in the desert – you name it, it’s on offer – and a seven-night stay at Emirates Palace. You have until the end of 2010 to book, so start saving.
After the day in Abu Dhabi, seeing the municipality turn from a desert city into a lush oasis, it was pure relief to spend the following day at sea. Billed as a ‘Country Club’ on the water, I was starting to call the ship home. There are daily newspapers and Sudoku for the sedentary or, for fitness enthusiasts, the option of a right royal workout at the gym with Rhyanna the ship’s personal trainer, who also runs Detox for Health programs, Pilates and yoga classes. I was a supportive bystander. Likewise, although I missed mass at 9am, Father Brian appeared later in an oatmeal-coloured safari suit for the captain’s cocktails and dinner, leaving me feeling just a little closer to God.
The opportunity to explore the ship and build relationships with my fellow passengers was too good to give up – who doesn’t love people-watching? I also enjoyed time on my cabin’s veranda – or did, until I looked twice and realised the German couple next door were enjoying the same view, starkers. I retired to the Panorama Lounge, and spent the next two days trying to work
out which couple they were with their clothes on.
Ice carving at 2pm started a little late and proved a challenging activity to perform in front of a crowd in 39-degree heat around the pool. The sculptor, Mike, emerged from the kitchen below decks replete with saws, sharp knives and a block of ice the size of an average fridge, and began chipping away. The activities manager asked passengers over the ship’s microphone what they thought the block of ice was being transformed into: a seahorse, Pinocchio, a fish? I volunteered, and thought quite inspired, the Virgin Mary (Father Brian would have been proud), but it turned out to be a baby dolphin. Who knew?
I took a stroll through the on-board shop (where I could choose from designer bags, diamonds and T-shirts) but skipped ballroom dancing lessons, bingo and the water volleyball tournament with the Entertainment Team vs. the Guests. I contemplated a spa treatment and a flutter at the casino but opted instead to attend a lecture by Mark Johnson, ex-ambassador, retired from the US State Department after serving 30 years in a variety of foreign policy positions. At one stage he was United States ambassador to Senegal, and began his diplomatic career in Kuwait. His talk was titled ‘President Obama and the Middle East, between Aretha Franklin and Caligula.’ It was interesting and gave pause for thought.
As Iran still carries the “axis of evil” label bestowed by President George W. Bush, and Dubai falters and recovers during the recession, the Middle East is a region of contrasts well worth visiting. Spending time visiting new ports each day is a great way to get a taste for the burgeoning region. My fellow passengers were also a surprising mix of demographics and nationalities and not what I had expected.
After our day at sea our next port of call was Fujairah, part of the United Arab Emirates, and a gateway port to tourist activities along the east coast. Although boasting a mountain range, where safaris and trekking are offered, the most popular activities centre around the coast – where visitors can fish, catch a dhow (a traditional Arab sailing boat), and visit the fjords to snorkel and dive. With a variety of marine life, the gentle pace of cruising up the beautiful coastline is the delight of this area.
The next day we arrive in Muscat, one of the many highlights of the trip. As Dubai and Abu Dhabi celebrate everything bright and new, parts of Muscat still retain their ancient appearance, with two old Portuguese forts, Al Jalali and Al Mirani, flanking the rocky cove around which the city is built. A statue of a frankincense burner greets you as you pull into port.
Picturesque old buildings coexist with modern commercial and residential quarters giving the city a unique ambience, compared to that of its flashy cousins.
Muttrah souk, on the corniche and opposite a gold-domed pagoda, is a tangle of narrow alleyways and a mix of shops selling jewellery in antique silver and intricate Arabesque designs; fabrics; dates; spices and frankincense; perfumes; gem-encrusted snuff boxes; baskets and pashminas. Bartering is a must and is a fun
part of the experience.
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is beautiful in soft cream-coloured stone and marble and is one of the few mosques open to non-Muslims. Taking more than six years to build, it is decorated inside with white and grey marble panelling and its dome features stained-glass triangles and tiles, with a central chandelier. As with the mosque in Abu Dhabi, appropriate clothing is required.
Two hours from Muscat is Nizwa. A day trip in itself, the small city sits in the most traditional part of the country. The drive through the mountainous zone, which dominates the landscape, with long flat stretches of motorway, is in stark contrast to the port area. It feels strange being in a car again, after the gentle rocking of the ship. There is a goat market; a 400-year-old mud hut to visit and the city is surrounded by date palms. The Nizwa Fort, with an impressive circular tower, is the largest fort in the country, and has been completely restored. Nizwa also has a souk reliably known for its silverwear and traditional Omani jewellery.
We lunch in a traditional local restaurant sitting on carpets strewn on the floor, in our own booth. Our guide recommends a range of local dishes including hummus, chicken and lamb curries, a fish stew and local breads. There is much more to see, explore and sample in Muscat and Oman. Louis Vuitton are rumoured to be opening a hotel in 2012: a monogrammed hotel to match your luggage! The day in Muscat has only whet my appetite to return. Everyone is excited about tomorrow, when we travel to Iran.
While arriving in Bandar Abbas, the capital of Hormozgan province in the south of Iran, you cannot help but notice the oil floating on the water while docking. The port, the largest in the country, is of commercial importance for Iran in the Persian Gulf and the Oman Sea, with local fishing and cargo ships moored alongside each other. With our visas organised, only one tour of the city is offered. It is very orderly and we are guided well around the city, but with no opportunity to wander off and explore it independently, we feel ourselves closely watched.
A tour of a bath museum, the Museum of Anthropology, and a fish market are less than impressive. The streets were dirty, canals polluted, and there was real poverty in the city I hadn’t expected. The highlights were a trip to the local mosque and visiting a local restaurant with plastic trees, fountains, a stream running over fake rocks and hospitable staff dressed in traditional costumes for the tourist market. We were served a simple meal of dates, watermelon, an orange and tea.
Everywhere there are signs of an ailing infrastructure. A large tanker had washed up on the main beach months ago, breaking the concrete barrier of the major coastal road, remains unsalvaged. It is enlightening to see first hand this pocket of Iran, but gloomier than I had expected. When we return to the dock, uniformed men patrol the area until the ship leaves at 11pm. A small selection of Iranian goods sold alongside the ship on the wharf are prosaic, much like Bandar Abbas itself.
After a fiesta-themed party around the pool with all the crew, the ship sails overnight to Khasab, Oman. A small town, which lies on the northern tip of Oman’s Musandam Peninsula, which is separated from Oman by the United Arab Emirates, it overlooks the Arabian Gulf in the northwest and the Gulf of Oman in the east. This remote slip of land, with its craggy cliffs and fjord-like inlets has earned it the reputation of ‘Norway of the Middle East’.
As we sail into the area, small boats piled high with livestock and boxes dart out of our way. The locals depend heavily on fishing for their livelihood. Tourism is beginning to attract travellers looking for a different experience, and with Dubai only two hours away I think this well-kept secret may not be so for long.
Our day on the dhow, a bright blue wooden boat, is exciting. Stretched out in the sun on cushions and carpets, sailing alongside the rugged coastline, with small villages carved into the rock, we attract dolphins that swim under our boat and dive alongside us in the azure-coloured water. Passing by the famous Telegraph Island, swimming and snorkelling in transparent, warm water and enjoying a buffet lunch; days like this are memory makers.
That night we enjoy our final dinner on board at Le Champagne restaurant, with a Best of Burgundy-themed night, served by a Frenchman and cooked by an Italian. Final drinks at
the Grappa Bar provide the perfect place for recapping our adventures. Overnight on the ship, we returned to Dubai.
What in the name of Imelda Marcos, the high priestess of shopping, is going on here? Sure, we have come to expect changing landscapes, and buildings appearing overnight in Dubai, but this is extraordinary. The Raffles Hotel is an interesting mix of hieroglyphs, artwork and Egyptian symbols, which I don’t think the Pharaohs left behind. The 19-storey Egyptian pyramid-shaped hotel with carved sand-coloured pillars was luxury-plus with its carvings and all things sphinx-like. By the time I reach my room, I swear I have walked through Egypt. The staff are friendly and helpful and we enjoy dinner at a good steak restaurant, Fire and Ice – amazed that, after seven nights of on-board dining, we can fit anything else in.
With a day to kill before the flight home, I visit the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building on earth, and The Dubai Mall. There is only so much shopping one person can do at a time, with over 1200 retail outlets, an aquarium and underwater zoo, a gold souk and fashion avenue with everything from Alexander McQueen to Zara, Bloomingdales to Givenchy. It is when I come across the ice rink,
I know it is time to come home. A truly memorable experience.
TRAVEL BY SEA
7-day round-trip
Dubai voyage aboard the all-suite, 212-guest Silver Wind (voyage 2036) departing November 25, 2010. Calls at Abu Dhabi (UAE), Fujairah (UAE), Muscat (Oman) and Bahrain, finishing with an overnight stay in Dubai. All-inclusive cruise-only fares for the seen-day voyage start from US$3413* per person, double occupancy.
14-day round-trip
Dubai voyage aboard Silver Wind (voyage 2039) departing December 20, 2010 (festive cruise over Christmas and New Year).
Calls at Abu Dhabi (UAE), Fujairah (UAE), overnight stay in Muscat (Oman), Salalah (Oman), Bandar Abbas (Iran) and Khasab (Oman), finishing with an overnight stay in Dubai. All-inclusive cruise-only fares for the 14-day voyage start from US$7133* per person,
double occupancy.
Silversea’s generous all-inclusive fare means that there are no hidden extras. The fare includes all-suite accommodation with butler service; gourmet dining in a choice of restaurants; complimentary wines, champagne and spirits throughout the ship, and all gratuities.
For more information contact Silversea Cruises on +61 2 9255 0600 or toll-free 1300 306 872 (Australia) or 0800 701 427 (New Zealand), or visit silversea.com
*Subject to availability, terms and conditions. Port charges are included.
TRAVEL BY AIR
Emirates offers 70 flights per week from Australia to Dubai – three flights daily from Sydney and Melbourne and twice daily from Brisbane and Perth. Emirates flies four times daily from New Zealand to Dubai via Australia. For further information and bookings visit emirates.com.
