Hooray! I finally found Piha by myself and discovered what hundreds of others already have – the Piha Cafe. Piha is an Auckland icon and a must-stop on the tiki tour. But it is also the one place I can never remember how to get to.

This time, armed with Google maps and a steely determination, I demystifyed the journey and trekked the easiest route, winding through Titirangi Village and down through twisty hills and green, punga-rich land. I felt a keen sense of belonging on my arrival. A salty sea-dog aura abounds and the small, rabbit-warren-like roads make you want to be a local just so you can find out what is up all those twisting driveways.

Despite contentious beginnings, in which its owners appeared in environment court and at council hearings fighting opposition from some locals, Piha Cafe is now a staple. Andy Higgs, one of the four owners, claims “they have been through the ringer, but there is so much support for us, some bordering on the fanatical, which is pretty cool”.

I arrive on a late autumn afternoon, child number one in tow and rain drowning the land. I am struck by the cafe’s groovy front-door handle – and the Scrabble letters stuck to the door telling me what to do with the handle, which turns out to be a coffee machine porta-filter. I like this place already.

The cafe has a quirky ambience, with recycled furniture and fixtures and touches of Kiwiana. The progeny has suddenly spied the worm food/pig food bins and is intrigued when I explain what they are for. However, our visit is brief, as we have arrived just before closing, so we eat a muffin and promise to return.

We turn our second visit next weekend into a family day out, including the grandparents, husband and kids. This time, Auckland is turning on a stunning Sunday, bright blue sky and crisp air with a hint of heat. The black iron sand of Piha Beach is spectacular, and I can feel the family’s excitement as we rediscover Auckland’s best-kept secret.

Finally we reach the flat and find the cafe. Coffees, fluffies and hot chocolates are ordered and the menu pondering begins. While not extensive, it is inviting. The majority tuck into the Twin Finn – two eggs on toasted ciabatta with rocket. The food was delicious and plentiful and our sprogletts played happily in the kids’ area by the front door.

We spent a great two hours at the cafe, with no pressure to move on. Despite a constant stream of people, everyone seemed to magically find a table. We finally pick ourselves up and, after changing a nappy in the kid-friendly bathrooms, we take a peek at the beach. If we didn’t have the little ones, we would have considered taking one of the many hikes that Piha and the Waitakere Ranges has on offer.

I may have even been enticed into a surf lesson or a visit to the bowling green – but we don’t partake today. We wind our way back up the rolling hills and head to the Arataki Visitor Centre, and I feel ashamed not to have come before. I entice the family out of the car and take a photo of us standing behind the massive frame that makes a masterpiece of the scenery beyond – a perfect snapshot of our day trip out west.