The first time I walk the red carpet that welcomes guests to the SLS Hotel in Beverley Hills I’m slightly perplexed. While the red carpet isn’t particularly long, and isn’t lined with paparazzi, it has spectacular scenery along its edges. To the right there are rows of artfully arranged plants and a lambskin and alligator-skin loveseat with horns, and to the left, chic guests hover near the hotel’s entrance. ‘I’m in LA?’ I ask myself. ‘Where are the bleach-blonde starlets, pumped-up agents and all the other clichés I’ve come to associate with the city?’
This is my third visit to LA, but it’s the first time I’ve had the chance to experience the best that LA has to offer, such as the SLS Hotel, which is designed by renowned French industrial and interior designer Philippe Starck. In 2007, Starck entered into an exclusive 15-year contract with nightclub-king-turned-hotel-mogul Sam Nazarian to design the SLS brand of hotels, the first of which is located in LA.
Starck, who is known for his minimalist style, has created a hotel that is both whimsical and practical. In the hotel’s public spaces, for instance, bookshelves line the walls and are filled with black-and-white photos, candles, kitschy ornaments and books that serve a functional purpose – to be read. Sometimes, however, whimsy wins out over practicality; evidenced by the antler-shaped light fixtures hanging from the ceiling in the dining areas and the life-sized photos of stylishly dressed people inside the lifts. It often feels like there is another person in the lift with you and I keep reminding myself, ‘It’s just me in here.’ The visual highlight of SLS Hotel (and there are many to choose from) is Ciel Spa, a celestial dreamspace of warm white tones. The monotone colour palette and lush textures throughout the spa envoke an immediate sense of relaxation – the perfect accompaniment to one of the decadent treatments on offer.
The sleek SLS Hotel is something I would expect to find in New York or Paris; not LA, a city whose claim to fame is just that, fame and fortune. “Los Angeles has always been an entertainment industry town,” says the hotel’s general manager Philip Dailey. “But more and more, it is a junction for world-class design and cutting-edge art. We are in the midst of an artistic and culinary revival – from downtown LA development to renowned chefs to emerging talent in the art scene.”
In nearby West Hollywood, the Mondrian is sparking the mind’s eye through clever design, too. Originally designed by Starck, the hotel was given a facelift in 2008 by Benjamin Noriega Ortiz, who invites the imagination down the proverbial rabbit hole. Human-sized terracotta pots, a Lucite love-seat indoor swing and a mushroom-inspired concierge centre conjure up images of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. The spectacle continues in the guestrooms, where massive hand mirrors showcase Noriega Ortiz’s veneration of the surrealist looking-glass theme. If it’s all a bit much, the rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the reality that surrounds this fantastical hotel; that is, the concrete jungle of Sunset Boulevard and downtown Los Angeles.
If you’re looking to take a piece of LA’s design and art scene home with you, head to Bergamot Station, in Santa Monica. As Southern California’s largest art gallery complex (eight acres to be precise), the Station features contemporary art galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art (SMMOA), architecture and design firms, a café and a framing shop. Gracie, located within the SMMOA, sells a variety of quirky gifts and homewares, which are often collaborations between the store and artists showing at the museum. I’m tempted to buy one of the vintage flannelette shirts with messages like ‘we just want you to be happy’ and ‘tell me something good’, the espresso cups by American artist Laura Zindel, and one of the cashmere sweaters designed by local artists.
In nearby Venice Beach I take a stroll up and down Abbot Kinney Boulevard. There are myriad homewares stores on the strip, and I see enough candles to light up the Vatican by the time I’ve finished browsing, but I also manage to drool over the mid-century modern furniture, lighting and accessories in French 50s60s (which also stocks American, Italian and Danish furniture) and purchase a few gifts from Firefly, such as a decoupage hip flask and a Dogeared Make A Wish Necklace.
If you’re visiting LA to stock up on wardrobe essentials (and the not-so-essentials) then Robertson Boulevard, which is also home to the famous Ivy Restaurant, is the place for you. Check out Curve for its impressive selection of Preen, Isabel Marant, Iko, Yrusha, Burberry Prorsum and Valentino. Just a couple of doors down, Vionnet stocks ever-so-slightly more affordable clothes and accessories, including Vera Wang separates and Camilla kaftans. Kitson, with its four shops on Robertson Boulevard and several others across LA, is full of bright, fun streetwear and stocks denim by Nobody and J Brand, Marc by Marc Jacobs handbags and a large variety of slogan T-shirts. Feel free to leave your sunglasses on
when you enter the store; if not for aesthetic reasons, then to protect your eyes from the sea of bright colours.
BEST HOTELS
SLS Hotel
465 South La Cienega Blvd, Beverley Hills
+1 310 2470 400
slshotels.com
Stunning design, quirky small touches and impeccable service make this hotel one of the best in the city. Be sure to check out Moss at SLS, a ‘liquid retail’ concept that is located within the hotel’s indoor piazza.
Mondrian
8440 Sunset Blvd West Hollywood
+1 323 6508 999
mondrianhotel.com
Recently rejuvenated by Benjamin Noriega Ortiz, this new incarnation of one of the original luxury boutique hotels in LA draws its inspiration from the serene coastal landscapes of Southern California and captures everything the Sunset Strip stands for – excitement, invisibility and glamour.
Chateau Marmont
8221 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles
+1 323 6561 010
chateaumarmont.com
Perhaps the most frequented hotel by celebrities; it has been this way since the 1930s. The hotel’s illustrious history includes Vivien Leigh covering every surface of her suite, 5D, with photos of her estranged husband Laurence Olivier, and James Dean auditioning for Rebel Without a Cause in one of the hotel’s rooms.
Shutters on the Beach
1 Pico Blvd, Santa Monica
+1 310 4584 589
shuttersonthebeach.com
Spacious, homely rooms, comfortable sofas throughout and lots of soft, coastal light, this hotel will seduce you into serenity. Great for the family.
JW Marriott
900 West Olympic Boulevard, Los Angeles
+1 213 7658 600
lalivemarriott.com
The newly opened JW Marriott Hotel Los Angeles features super-sleek rooms and public spaces. Located in downtown LA, the hotel is the perfect choice for a work-related trip.
BEST BARS
Skybar
8440 W Sunset Blvd West Hollywood
+1 323 8486 025
mondrianhotel.com
Perched above the pool and outdoor living room of the Mondrian Hotel, the bar is an open-air, ivy-covered pavilion with some of the finest
views of the city.
Whiskey Blue
at the W Hotel
930 Hilgard Avenue Los Angeles
+1 310 4438 232
starwoodhotels.com
Whiskey Blue mixes high-design and art to create a unique, sexy space where people can unwind and enjoy themselves. The relaxed, artful and seductive Polynesian style draws the hip local crowd.
The Standard Rooftop Bar
550 South Flower Street Los Angeles
+1 213 8928 080
standardhotels.com
The Rooftop Bar at The Standard, downtown LA encompasses a heated swimming pool, red AstroTurf deck, dance floor, bar, outdoor fireplace, vibrating waterbed pods and a grassy knoll with sculptured topiary. DJs, excellent food and special events have established the Rooftop Bar as one of the most coveted nightlife destinations.
The Woods
1533 N La Brea Hollywood
+1 323 8766 612
vintagebargroup.com
Comprised almost entirely of the bar’s namesake, The Woods offers a unique setting with many specialty drinks such as its signature Mint Julep cocktail and its legendary
shot, The Hollow Point.
The Edison
108 West 2nd St, Los Angeles
+1 213 6130 000
edisondowntown.com
Packed with artifacts from the bar’s history as downtown LA’s first private power plant, the bar features hand-crafted cocktails and carefully selected wines. A novelty bar with class.
BEST WALKS
Topanga State Park Trek
discoverlosangeles.com
Switchbacks and steep hill climbs characterise the first two miles of this hike. With an elevation gain of about 400 metres, the hike is definitely a tough climb. But you’ll get rewarded as you gaze out from your vantage point atop the bluff. Enjoy a picnic lunch or relax on a bench while taking in the overlook.
Heart-of-
Hollywood Hike
Runyon Canyon Loop
discoverlosangeles.com
This is a great hike for people-watching, and it gives beginner hikers a chance to check out the Hollywood Hills and the amazing views at the trail summit. Whether you’re in the latest hiking gear or just sandals and sun hats, this is a fun hike highlighted by million- dollar mansions and priceless views of the Hollywood sign, the Sunset Strip and the
rest of the LA Basin.
Hollywood Walk of Fame
A short look can take a few minutes or you can spend hours tracking down your favourite celebrities on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Best done in the morning when there are fewer people about and you can take a decent photo.
Downtown LA Walks
laconservancy.org
Uncover the historical gems of LA’s history, from the Biltmore Hotel and Central Library to Orpheum Theatre to Fine Arts Building, on a self-guided LA Conservancy podcast tour.
The Strand beach walk
Manhattan Beach, Santa Monica
This is a classic Southern Californian beach, with volleyball courts, surfers and sunbathers. Walk, rollerblade or bike along the three mile-long Strand boardwalk that runs alongside the beach.
BEST ORGANIC FOOD
Real Food Daily
514 Santa Monica Blvd.
Santa Monica
+1 310 4517 544
This organic vegan eatery attracts the someday to the everyday vegetarian, celebrities, trendsetting young eaters with sophisticated palates and the mature diner seeking gourmet, healthy cuisine.
Paul Martin’s American Bistro Restaurant
2361 Rosecrans Avenue,
El Segundo
+1 916 7833 600
paulmartinsamericanbistro.com
The menu uses meat raised in a humane and wholesome way, locally sourced organic produce, fish from conscientious fishmongers, artisan cheeses and cured meats from small local purveyors and custom-made bread from expert bakers.
Follow Your Heart
21825 Sherman Way, Canoga Park
+1 818 3483 240
followyourheart.com
This 40-year-old cafe is great for breakfast. The menu includes a variety of tasty pancakes, waffles, fruit, hot cereal and many famous tofu creations.
Green Temple Restaurant
1700 Catalina Ave, Redondo Beach
+1 310 9444 525
greentemple.net
The Green Temple Restaurant works with local farmers to bring diners seasonal produce and shops at Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s for quality products – a meal for your conscience, too.
Native Foods, Organic & Vegan, Westwood
Westwood Village, 1110 1/2 Gayley Ave. Los Angeles
+1 310 2091 055
nativefoods.com
Founded by famous vegan chef, Tanya Petrovna, Native Foods offers homely cuisine that is both seasonal and locally-sourced. Try the signature dish, the Chicken Run Ranch Burger.
BEST COFFEE
Joni’s Coffee
552 Washington Blvd.
Marina Del Rey
+1 1800 792 5750
joniscoffee.com
The coffee beans from Joni’s Coffee are collected from boutique farms from all over the world. You just have to glance at the menu to tell: there’s Costa Rican, Mexican Custepec and, my favourite, Joni’s French Roast.
The Novel Café
2507 Main St. Santa Monica
+1 310 396 7700
novelcafe.com
A little piece of New York in LA is how visitors to this venue describe The Novel Café. As the name suggests, you’re welcome to catch up on some reading or perhaps catch up with friends! The café also has musical performers, poetry readings and open mic nights for your entertainment.
Urth Caffé
8565 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood
+1 310 6590 628
urthcaffe.com
The Urth Caffé is an organic coffee company that exclusively carries its own brand of premium, fresh roasted whole bean organic coffee, and hand selected fine teas sold under strict quality and ethical standards.
Bourgeois Pig
5931 Franklin Ave Los Angeles
+1 323 4646 008
A great place for lounging and people-watching, the Bourgeois Pig is one of the few coffee venues in LA that’s open until 2am. The crowd is at its best after sunset.
The Griddle cafe
7916 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood
+1 323 8740 377
thegriddlecafe.com
Located next door to the Directors Guild of America, this cafe is swarming with celebrities, as well as wannabe celebrities. You can see why after sampling its fresh French press coffee
and all-day breakfast.
BEST DEPARTMENT STORES
Saks Fifth Avenue
9600 Wilshire Blvd,
Beverly Hills
+1 310 2754 211
saksfifthavenue.com
The place to go for classic American designers Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren. The store lives up to its reputation for selection and service.
Bloomingdale’s at the Beverly Center
8500 Beverly Boulevard, Beverly Hills
+1 310 3602 700
beverlycenter.com
This store is your go-to for reasonably-priced clothing, accessories and beauty products. Featured designers include BCBGMaxAzria, Tory Burch and DVF.
Nordstrom at
The Grove
189 The Grove Dr, Los Angeles
+1 323 9302 230
thegrovela.com
The Disney Land of shopping malls, The Grove plays host to restaurants, a theatre and many American shopping institutions, including Nordstrom, which has a great selection of high-end and high-street clothing and fantastic service to boot.
Barney’s New York CO-OP, Americana at Brand
889 Americana Way Suite 330 Glendale
+1 818 254 3170
americanaatbrand.com
The creative arm of
the Barney’s New York
chain, CO-OP features designers such as Sigerson
Morrison, Helmut Lang and
3.1 Phillip Lim dresses, and Alexander Wang bags.
Macy’s at the Westfield Century City mall
10250 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles
310.556.1611
westfield.com/centurycity
Macy’s captures the spirit of America as the nation’s department store. By reflecting lifestyle, providing fashion, delivering affordable luxury and putting the customer first, you’ll immediately feel at home in this department store.
BEST SPAS
Spa Luce at the Renaissance Hollywood
1755 North Highland Avenue
+1 323 4911 376
spaluce.com
Choose from a wide range of decadent treatments at this spa, including the Green Tea-a-peel that combines pure green tea and wheatgrass extracts with lactic acid to refine, smooth, and brighten skin. You also have access to the eucalyptus-infused steam rooms and rooftop pool.
The Spa at the Omni Los Angeles Hotel
251 South Olive Street, Los Angeles
+1 213 6173 300
omnihotels.com
Experience luxury with a European sensibility at the spa treatment rooms in the Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza. Select from an impressive array of treatments designed to refresh and rejuvenate mind, body
and spirit.
Bliss LA in the
W Los Angles
930 Hilgard Avenue Los Angeles
+1 877 8625 477
blissworld.com
With services like the Triple Oxygen Treatment and Carrot and Sesame Body Buff, as well as movie-while-you-manicure nail stations, this spa, located in the trendy W Hotel, will make you feel like a VIP right from the minute you walk through its door.
Luxe Spa at Luxe Hotel Sunset Blvd
11461 Sunset Boulevard,
Los Angeles
+1 310 4766 571
luxehotelsunsetblvd.com/spa.php
Packages combine yoga, skin and body treatments. This spa is perhaps best visited towards the end of an indulgent LA trip.
The Spa at the Beverly Wilshire
9500 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills
+1 310 2755 200
fourseasons.com
The Spa at Beverly Wilshire pulses with vibrant energy and is positively brimming with celebrities.
GETTING THERE
V Australia offers direct, daily flights from Sydney to Los Angeles and direct flights ex Brisbane on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Direct flights ex Melbourne are available on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Return flights direct from Sydney, Brisbane or Melbourne start from $1650. Formal connecting flights are also available from other destinations across the Virgin Blue network. For those who want flexibility or only need to travel in one direction, try the new super cheap one-way fares. For all the bells and whistles, try the award-winning Business Class return fares from $9875. Visit vaustralia.com.au for current specials and bookings. To find out more about LA, visit discoverlosangeles.com or visitcalifornia.com.au
